The Green Travel Guide #008: What Makes Istanbul the Queen of Cities?

A Green Traveller’s Postcard — Discover hidden corners, the city’s top 10 bookshops, local stories, and a slow travel concierge’s edit - Mindful Travel for a Meaningful World

Journey with me to Istanbul— the city where East meets West.

From its lush shady parks, vibrant neighbourhoods, and spice bazaars bursting with the scents of cinnamon, rose and saffron, this is a city that enchants and seduces the traveller. One where neighbourhood bookshops double as cultural salons, their doors open late into the night, echoing with conversation and poetry. Outside, the Bosphorus glimmers under a canopy of stars, its dark waters holding the reflections of a thousand lights.

Take a literary walking tour with Postcards from Istanbul, and lose yourself in the city’s quieter rhythms. Discover bookshops and cafés made for lingering—perfect companions to our curated Istanbul Reads. Stroll through cool riverside parks and alongside waterways that ribbon through the heart of the city and beyond, as our Slow Travel Concierge takes you on a curated green travel visit through the Queen of Cities.

Postcard from Istanbul: A Literary Walk Through Istanbul

“Istanbul is a book that is never finished; it is a novel that keeps writing itself, with every step you take in it.”

– Turkish author, Selim İleri

This time, I travel from Asia to Europe, crossing the Bosphorus from Kadıköy to Eminönü. It is late afternoon and the sun glints off the waves, seagulls circle overhead as the city stretches out before me. Its iconic landmarks – the minarets and domes of the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia sparkle in the sea-reflected light, and behind them the cupolas of Topkapi Palace rise up on the skyline ahead, as the boat passes by Galata Tower.

Along the waterfront men patiently cast fishing lines into the water, and as I step onto the jetty the smell of saltwater and grilled mackerel blends with scents of lemon, cinnamon and Turkish coffee. Tourists wheel suitcases, street sellers hawk their wares, car horns beep furiously in a background symphony, while tempting stands of sticky tulumba and baklava line the route to the spice market.

Once known as Byzantion, briefly Nova Roma, then famously Constantinopolis (Constantinople), now Istanbul, the city has always been at the crossing point of cultures and continents, with its mix of Greek, Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman influenced architecture and history, its narrow streets leading down to the water, and brightly painted timber-framed houses in old neighbourhoods like Fener-Balat. There’s a palpable sense of possibility – stories lie in wait around every corner, inspiring ancient Byzantine poets, Ottoman writers and modern storytellers alike.

I have been learning Turkish for several months now – mostly by letting hours of long-running soap operas play in the background. I learn evet, yok, lütfen, merhaba, Allah Allah, tamam. Each scene is full of effusive greetings, courtesy, gentle humour.

The language is soft, melodic, and – for this I am grateful – phonetic.

Alongside the soap operas I have bought several books in Turkish, with their respective translations, and work through them diligently (simultaneously reading Ferzan Özpetek’s writing in Turkish and Italian, doubles up the language learning as I go). Kind Turkish friends humour my attempts at communication. I am making progress, soaking up the conversations around me, picking out familiar phrases and words.

Home to over 16 million people, Istanbul is both modern metropolis with plenty of thrusting skyscrapers, built in amongst living ancient history. There are of course many Istanbuls. The Istanbul for tourists – visiting the palaces, mosques, gardens, the Grand Bazaar, taking their photographs outside the colourful Fener houses. The Istanbul of young Turkish Istanbullu, discussing life at outdoor cafés and tea houses, or older life-long residents chatting in shaded doorways or stopping in local shops to talk about latest family news. There’s an Istanbul of immigrants, of taxi drivers, of street-sellers. An Istanbul of nostalgia and historical glory. As well as the striving urban city, forward-looking, shiny and ambitious.

But, I’m mostly intrigued to discover the many Istanbuls as written by its writers.

I wander up to the Spice Bazaar – also known as Misir Çarşısı (Egyptian Bazaar). For travel writer Jan Morris, this place was:

“A sensory overload in the best way possible, where every turn offers new textures and flavours, as if the city’s history is ground into every grain of spice.”

The 17th century building with its arches and labyrinth rows of stalls, is exactly that – an overload of cinnamon, cardamom, rose, mint. There are stalls with deep trays full of nuts, dried fruits, jars of honey or olives, piles of dried herbs, of saffron and sumac. The air is full of the scent of coffee, and stacks of lokum (sweet Turkish Delight) – its jewel-like colours of ruby red, orange, pale pink rose, pistachio green, all sugar-dusted and to be found in many of the narrow market aisles, next to endless scented teas.

The spice bazaar is like a miniature of the city’s energy – chaotic, welcoming, overwhelming, seductive. It’s a timeless place, where you feel the Byzantium, the Ottoman pasts, and the modern life of the city all weaved together.

Orhan Pamuk, Istanbul’s Nobel laureate, has described the Spice Bazaar as:

“A vibrant mosaic of history and daily life, where the city’s soul reveals itself in colours and smells.”

I buy small bags of nuts, sweet sticky treats, some rose water, lokum wrapped in paper, and leave the bazaar to the west walking uphill to Cağaloğlu Yokuşu. This neighbourhood is full of second-hand bookshops, historic printing houses, and sahaflar (book dealers).

Istanbul has always been a city of writers.

Another five or so minutes along, and it doesn’t take long to reach Beyazıt Square. Here, behind the mosque is an open-air passage, Sahaflar Çarşısı, full of second-hand book stalls and antiquarian dealers selling their wares. It’s a pleasure to just browse the stalls full of old maps, vintage postcards, old Turkish novels, posters, books. The sellers are happy to chat, I practice my Turkish. We swap stories and laughter. The atmosphere is calmer than that of the spice market.

Wandering on to Gülhane Park, I am curious to visit the Ahmet Hamdi Tanpınar Library, a Turkish literature library set within a restored polygonal-shaped Ottoman building built into the walls of the park itself. Walls are lined with thousands of books, downstairs is home to a Writer’s Cafe and upstairs houses exhibitions on various Turkish writers, plays home to literary events, and pulses with literary history. The library’s polished wood floors, the quiet reading areas, the bright chandeliers and beautiful stained-glass windows, create a rarified atmosphere.

I pause in the gardens, and take out the book I’m reading. It’s a quiet haven here in the heart of the city, and I rest while listening to children playing nearby, their shouts ringing out as they call to each other.

Turkish poet and playwright, Nazım Hikmet, pictured the city as a poem onto itself:

“Istanbul is the place where the sky is still the colour of the sea, the colour of the Bosphorus, and the city becomes a museum for the heart.”

Literary life here however isn’t lived in museums. It’s found in many of the city’s cafes, in its streets and vibrant neighbourhoods where conversations run on long into the night.

It’s a short walk to cross Galata Bridge, over to FiL Books in Karaköy — part bookshop, cafe, publishing house, a low-key place to soak up Karaköy life.

Sitting outside at one of the little tables, I taste the lokum I bought earlier with a coffee. The contrast of bitter and sweet tastes evokes what I feel about Istanbul – a beautiful, soulful city caught between its desire for freedom and its rootedness in tradition.

For Turkish writer, Refik Halit Karay:

“Istanbul, with its breeze, its sea, its noise, its people, is a place where anyone who comes, becomes one with it.”

I feel that as I walk along the waterfront, making my way back to the ferry, crossing once more from west to east.

Top 10 Bookshop Cafés in Istanbul for Slow Travel Moments

If you’re looking for a taste of Turkish literary life, or just a quiet or charming spot to sit and write or read, then these ten Istanbul bookshop cafés are for you:

1. Minoa Books & Coffee – Akaretler, Beşiktaş

Minoa, with plenty of titles in English and Turkish is a spacious, multi-level bookstore. The café offers coffee and food, and the bookshop is a favourite spot for creatives, readers and writers alike.

https://minoa.com/en/pages/hakkimizda

2. FiLBooks – Karaköy

A cozy spot known for its curated selection of art and photography books. FiLBooks doubles as a café and hosts workshops, as well as being a publishing house. It attracts a loyal, creative crowd.

https://www.filbooks.com

3. İstanbul Kitapçısı – Kadıköy

With scenic waterfront views from the top of the ferry terminal at Kadıköy, this is the perfect spot to enjoy some leisurely reading. The book shop has a good selection of books, and you get your coffee on site in the cafe with an incredible Bosporous panorama from the deck.

https://www.istanbulkitapcisi.com

4. Türk Alman Kitabevi Café – Taksim

Established in 1955, this historic bookstore specialises in German and English literature alongside Turkish writing. Great spot for coffee and a quiet reading setting.

https://www.tak.com.tr

5. Nail Kitabevi – Kuzguncuk

Set in a charming 19th-century building, full of cosy reading and coffee nooks, Nail Kitabevi offers an excellent selection of books and a quiet café, making it a favourite with locals.

@nail_kitabevi

6. Tasarım Bookshop & Café – Kadıköy

With the focus on art, architecture, and design, this bookstore and cozy café provides a creative space for readers and writers alike.

@tasarimbookshop

7. Ada Kitabevi – Beyoğlu

Situated in the historic Suriye Pasajı, Ada Kitabevi combines an excellent bookstore with café, often hosting cultural events and art exhibitions.

@adacafeistiklal

8. Books & Coffee – Karaköy

This bookstore/café offers a diverse selection of books in multiple languages and is a convivial place to meet up with friends.

@booksandcoffeeturkiye

9. Homer Kitabevi – Beyoğlu

With an extensive collection of books in different languages, you can also enjoy the cozy reading nook with a cup of Turkish tea.

@homerkitabevi

10. Fahriye Café – Kadıköy

A charming café, picture quirky living room style, that doubles as a bookstore, Fahriye Café offers a relaxed environment for readers and coffee enthusiasts alike.

@fahriyecafe

Slow Travel Concierge — The Green Travel Edit: Istanbul

Our Slow Travel Concierge has curated a mini-travel edit to the city through a mindful travel lens. Here’s a run-down of slow travel spots, eco-experiences, and curated stays for the mindful traveller.

Parks & Riverside Refuges

Istanbul may be urban, but it’s threaded with lush sanctuaries. Explore its green spaces:

Emirgan Park, a former Ottoman grove on a hillside, now renowned for tulip festivals, century-old pavilions, and riverside tea gardens— this park bursts into colour each spring.

Gülhane Park, once part of Topkapi Palace grounds, now full of shaded pathways steeped in history in Istanbul’s oldest park.

Belgrad Forest, just outside the city center, offers ancient reservoirs and forest trails — a large green escape within the metro’s reach.

Küçüksu Pavilion gardens make for an interesting visit or try riverside cafes for a coffee and simit with the locals.

A Sailing Trip

Consider a wooden gulet tour on the Bosphorus: travel by traditional wooden Turkish sailing boat for a few days slow-paced coastal travel, cutting between continents at a pace that allows quiet observation—leave behind the city with its seagulls gliding overhead, the call to prayer echoing, and fishermen hauling nets harbourside — to explore further afield.

Green Stays in Istanbul

The Stay (Bebek / Nişantaşı / Bosphorus)

Turkey’s first independent carbon‑neutral hotel chain, green-certified; uses recycled materials, renewable energy, and supports local arts & culture — alongside front row seats to wrap-around Bosphorous views.

Soho House Istanbul (Beyoğlu / Pera)

Frequently highlighted as one of the best boutique-style stays in Istanbul. Soho House’s Istanbul outpost is located in a beautifully restored 19th-century palazzo. The hotel includes a verdant rooftop garden & restaurant, spa (Cowshed), gym, and a mindfully-curated art-filled interior. Non-members can book rooms too — no extra fee.

The Peninsula Istanbul (Karaköy)

At the vanguard of sustainable design, recommended for its sensitively-restored 19th century maritime buildings, garden-led design, spa, and amazing views of the Bosphorus meeting the Golden Horn.

The Peninsula is rated ‘excellent’ for high‑level eco-conscious BREEAM certification, has a rooftop garden, sources local produce, and prioritises zero-waste dining initiatives.

Hagia Sofia Mansions (Sultanahmet, European side)

An atmospheric cluster of nine restored Ottoman wooden mansions along peaceful Soğukçeşme Street. With an authentic feel, the sustainable ethos comes through reuse of heritage materials. A history-rich choice with boutique ambience. Leafy courtyard for a slow stay steps from Hagia Sofia.

Ecole St. Pierre Hotel (Galata district, European side)

Looking for an intimate stay? Try this former French Catholic school, now bijou-boutique hotel with 17 rooms, thoughtfully restored, exceptional service, and full of history and design character.

Gezi Hotel Bosphorus (European side)

Boutique-scale luxury with sustainable design sensibility— a Green Star hotel with energy-efficient systems, eco-built materials, local sourcing, and waste reduction programs—set along the scenic Bosphorus waterfront.

Green Eats - Istanbul

The BARN (Silivri, Istanbul province)

— With a zero-waste ethos and focus on locally sourced ingredients; prioritises sustainability

Telezzüz (Kuzguncuk, Üsküdar)

— Seasonal menu, ethical sourcing from small local producers, sustainability focus

Casa Lavanda (in Istanbul)

— Michelin Green Star shout-out for local partnership and resource-conscious gastronomy

Neolokal (Beyoğlu)

— Michelin-starred and Green Star restaurant championing "New Anatolian" cuisine prioritising local grown and sustainable heritage ingredients

Mikla (Pera/Beyoğlu)

— Mikla is a leader in "New Anatolian" farm-to-fork fine dining, supporting regional producers and culinary biodiversity, rooftop dining and a vegan set menu is available

Green Travel Tips: Small Changes, Big Difference

• Use ferries, footbridges, and trams where possible. It cuts carbon, supports use of public transport and allows for a slower pace.

• Seek out the tea gardens in Emirgan or quiet cafés by the Golden Horn. Enjoy local hospitality with minimal impact.

• Stay at green-certified accommodations to ensure sustainable water, energy, and waste practices.

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Recommended Reads: Istanbul Insights

[My Reading in Turkish & Italian - Ferzan Özpetek’s Hidden Heart]

Memories and the City by Orhan Pamuk

Part memoir, part cultural history — an intimate, black-and-white portrait of the city and Pamuk’s own coming-of-age within it. A slow, soulful read for lovers of melancholic travel writing.

Portrait of a Turkish Family by Irfan Orga

A moving account of a well-to-do Istanbul family’s collapse after World War I and tale of Turkey’s transformation in the 20th century.

The Museum of Innocence by Orhan Pamuk

A love story and meditation on memory, obsession, and the passage of time — all intricately set in Istanbul’s shifting landscape from the 1970s onward. Slow, layered, deeply atmospheric.

Istanbul Istanbul by Burhan Sönmez

Set in a prison beneath the city, this novel braids together dark humour, myth, and memory through the voices of political prisoners — a haunting yet tender ode to storytelling and place.

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Until next time,

Laura

Laura McVeigh

Author | Travel Writer | Founder, Green Travel Guides

greentravelguides.world | lauramcveigh.com | lauramcveightravel.com

Laura McVeigh is an internationally bestselling Northern Irish novelist and travel writer. Her writing has been widely translated. She has written for Lonely Planet, DK Travel, with bylines in the Irish Times and Irish Independent, her writing has been featured by the BBC, Newsweek, New Internationalist and many more. A former CEO, she is founder of Travel-Writing.Com and Green Travel Guides — a green travel platform for mindful travellers. Alongside her fiction, travel writing and journalism, Laura writes about storytelling, travel writing and green travel on Substack.