From the Arctic Circle’s Midnight Sun to Slow Food: Your Autumn Guide to Sustainable Travel
The Green Travel Guide: Mindful Travel for a Meaningful World
If you’re new here, welcome! I share three weekly newsletters through the lens of a novelist and travel writer: on Sundays in Storycraft on the art of creativity & story, Write Your Way Around the World on Tuesdays on travel writing and building a writing career you love, and The Green Travel Guide on Thursdays on mindful, slow and sustainable travel. Thanks for coming along on the journey!
In this week’s The Green Travel Guide we’re exploring your Autumn Guide to Sustainable Travel with:
A slow train journey to the Arctic Circle in search of the Midnight Sun
5 Ways to Travel Slower This Autumn
Iconic Train Journeys
Slow Food: Italy, Lebanon & Vietnam
India in the Autumn
Best Walking & Cycling Slow Travel Trips to Take
The Green Travel Guide: Slow Scandinavia
Journey Reads
Explorers’ Club
Featured Story: Travelling to the Arctic Circle in search of the Midnight Sun
Join me as I go in search of the midnight sun on a slow train journey, stretching from Mora in Sweden’s Dalarna, on the iconic Inlandsbanan heading 750km north to Gällivare in the Arctic Circle.
The Inlandsbanan’s distinctive red and white carriages trundle through fir forests, stopping off by cool lakes for a ‘swim moment’, passengers spilling down from the train onto the grassy banks, a pause in the journey while it travels up to the Arctic Circle.
Sometimes the train shudders to a halt as moose meander on the line. Our cheerful train guide points out places of note en route, with the train taking various impromptu breaks along the way allowing us to explore a little. At one point, in a densely forested area, the train slows gradually to a halt. Our train guide ushers us all out of the carriages and down into the pine-needled woods, ‘for some beers!’
Thirsty smiling passengers descend, equally cheered by the news, expecting a picnic table laid for lunch and bottles of beer on ice. But no - instead we’re told to stay quiet as she inches towards a mossy shelter between the fir trees. Suddenly, it collectively dawns on us all - Ah, not beers but bears!
There’s a hasty, rather undignified, retreat back onto the train at the first crack of a branch underfoot.
Not a stop at which to get left behind.
The train doesn’t hurry. Instead you have time to soak up the incredible landscapes through the large picture windows. We pause to tour a village, to swim in cool lake waters, later for supper in a traditional restaurant in Vilhelmina Norra (serving smoked reindeer, which I politely decline). We cross over into the Arctic Circle - the train stopping momentarily south of Jokkmokk to let us enjoy the moment.
The Arctic is one of those fabled places of the imagination - somewhere that we picture in our mind’s eye. An edge of the world kind of place.
In reality it covers 4% of the Earth’s surface, taking in the Northern reaches of Norway, Sweden, Finland, Russia, Alaska in the US, Canada, Greenland and Iceland.
Eventually, we reach Gällivare in Sweden’s Lapland. This town in the Arctic Circle, in an area long inhabited by the Sámi, experiences the Midnight Sun from June to early July each year.
These days while you can visit and learn about Sámi traditions, like joik (traditional song), duodji (handicrafts made of bone, birch and leather) or listen to stories where nature intertwines with ancestral memories, the Sámi are also active in urban life, with their own Parliament (Sametinget) in Kiruna to give political voice to their concerns and rights, and to protect their linguistic and cultural heritage. The traditional lifestyle of reindeer herding on the snow-laden tundra, and fishing cold northern rivers, remains a vital practice too - it is a balancing act between two ways of living.
We arrive to Gällivare tired but happy from the long journey. But the day doesn’t end. Instead everything is basked in a soft, golden glow.
There is something equal parts poetically beautiful and strangely dystopian about a day in which the sun doesn’t set. The locals soak up every moment of the soft gentle light with nighttime kayaking, fishing trips, extreme running events, and outdoor music filling the streets - as we all turn ‘time blind,’ dazed by day without night.
(Photos: inlandsbanan.se + visitsweden.se - check for special trips using retro dining cars for an extra atmospheric journey, or if you travel on the standard train, bring a cushion - it’s a long journey!)
5 Ways to Travel Slower This Autumn
Autumn is perfect for slower travel — crisp air, fewer crowds, and everything feels a bit more deliberate. Here are five ways to stretch out your travels, enjoy the moment, and leave a lighter footprint.
1. Choose Trains over Planes
Skip the rush of airports, reduce your carbon footprint and instead opt for scenic routes where the journey is part of the adventure.
Here are three iconic train routes in Scandinavia for autumnal travels:
Oslo → Bergen (Norway) — The Bergen Railway (Bergensbanen) offers dramatic vistas: mountain plateaus, pine forests, glaciers, and shimmering fjords.
Mora → Gällivare (Sweden) — Head far north on the Inlandsbanan through the Swedish wilderness, across lakes, forests and cross into the Arctic Circle.
Copenhagen → Oslo (Denmark → Sweden → Norway) — A mix of coastline, archipelago, forest, and eventually mountain-scapes. (You can take the train to Gothenburg, then onward north.)
Bring a good book, snacks, and enjoy the slow shifts in landscapes.
If you’re dreaming of slow travel in Scandinavia, check out The Green Travel Guide: Slow Scandinavia (covering itineraries for train trips in Norway, island-hopping in Sweden, cycling in Denmark, and a weekend forest retreat in Finland along with green travel sustainable city guides for Oslo, Helsinki, Stockholm and Copenhagen). All you need for where to go / stay / eat / explore curated through a green travel lens.
And here are a few more iconic train routes to inspire you for future slow travels:
Glacier Express (Zermatt → St. Moritz, Switzerland)
The “slowest express train in the world” - 8 hours of pure alpine theatre. You get panoramic windows, white peaks, deep gorges, and impeccable service: enjoy a glass of Swiss wine as you cross the Oberalp Pass.
West Highland Line (Glasgow → Mallaig, Scotland)
Moorland, lochs, sea views, and the famous Glenfinnan Viaduct (of Harry Potter fame). Steam train option in summer months - The Jacobite.
Venice Simplon-Orient-Express (Venice or Paris → Istanbul) Pure 1920s glamour - Art Deco cabins, crystal, fine dining, and vintage luxury. Dressing up for dinner as you cross the Alps.
The Ghan (Adelaide → Darwin, Australia)
Crossing Australia’s red heart, from vineyards to desert to tropics. Watching dawn break over the Outback from your cabin.
Darjeeling Himalayan Railway (India)
A UNESCO-listed train that winds from New Jalpaiguri to Darjeeling through tea gardens and mountain villages with steam engine whistles echoing through misty hills.
Shongololo Express (Southern Africa)
Traverses South Africa, Namibia, Mozambique, and Zimbabwe in luxury sleeper comfort, often with safari excursions en route. Imagine seeing elephants from your window before sunset.
Kyushu Seven Stars (Japan)
Japan’s most luxurious train - lacquered interiors, fine dining, live music, and scenic stops through forests, mountains, and hot-spring towns. Enjoy an onboard kaiseki meal as you glide past Mount Aso.
Andean Explorer (Peru)
South America’s first luxury sleeper train runs from Cusco to Lake Titicaca and Arequipa through high-altitude plains, alpaca herds, and snow-capped peaks. Don’t miss out on watching sunrise over Titicaca with coca tea in hand.
Eastern & Oriental Express (Singapore → Bangkok)
Tropical luxury: teak interiors, fine dining, paddy fields, and temple views. Enjoy afternoon tea as the jungle blurs past.
2. Eat Local
Food connects you with place and people. Autumn brings harvests, seasonal flavours, and cosy meals. Here are three food-rich countries to explore:
Italy is a foodie’s paradise with each region known for different specialities.
For food lovers in fall, try Emilia-Romagna (Parma, Modena), Tuscany (Siena, Florence), Piedmont (Turin) for Tordelli lucchesi (meat-ravioli typical of Lucca), Cacciucco (Tuscan fish stew), or Bagna Càuda (a warm garlic-anchovy dip in Piedmont served like a fondue).
Visit local markets in these places in autumn, to enjoy seasonal produce like apples, mushrooms, and chestnuts.
Lebanon, known for its warm hospitality and melting-pot of cultural influences, offers fresh Mediterranean-meets-Middle Eastern cuisine. Visit Byblos and Zahle, and try Moutabbal & Tabbouleh with fresh, local produce; Kibbeh bil sanieh (baked kibbeh casserole); seasonal stews like lamb & quince served in clay dishes in mountain villages. Check travel advisories before travel.
Vietnam, bursting with flavours and textures - Vietnamese cuisine is treat for meat-eaters and vegetarians alike. Explore the slow food scene in Hoi An, Sa Pa, and Hue. Taste Cao lầu in Hoi An (noodles with pork & greens), smoky grilled meats & mountain herbs in Sa Pa, Bún bò Huế (spicy beef noodle soup) in Hue as the nights cool.
3. Stay Longer
Rather than bouncing around many places, linger in a single destination. One idea: India in autumn.
Pick a region — maybe Rajasthan, Kerala, or Himachal Pradesh — and settle there for a week or more.
Enjoy fewer transitions: soak up local rhythms, explore villages, take slow transport (boats, local buses, short train rides), perhaps stay in a homestay, Ayurveda retreat, or eco-lodge.
The weather in many parts is cooling after monsoon and before winter in Himalayas, making it ideal for gentle exploring, food, art, and local festivals.
Read my story on sailing the Kerala backwaters here and check out the Green Travel Destination Guide to Rajasthan.
4. Plan Fewer Stops
Making fewer moves means less time packing/unpacking, spending more time in each place, experiencing more depth and connection.
Consider doing a road trip but immersing deeper in one area, instead of city-hopping — for instance, visit the West Coast of Ireland for rugged mountain climbs, island visits, warm hospitality, hearty local pub food, traditional music and culture, misty mornings and windswept coastline.
Get your free copy of The Green Travel Guide: Wild Atlantic Way for a 12 day itinerary along the west of Ireland.
5. Walk & Cycle
Walking and cycling force you to slow down literally - you see the small details, taste the air, hear the birds. Here are a few of my favourite autumn-friendly routes:
Walking
Mourne Mountains (Northern Ireland) - rugged peaks, autumnal heather, quiet trails, panoramic views.
Camino de Santiago (Spain) - walk sections in Galicia or Álava, where fall colours, harvests, and fewer pilgrims make it deeply reflective. Find more info in the free 7 Green Adventures Mini-Guide.
Balearic Islands (Spain) - Explore Mallorca’s ancient dry stone-wall trails or Menorca’s coastal footpaths away from summer crowds.
Cycling
Danube Cycle Path (Hungary / Austria) — flat stretches, riverside towns, golden fall foliage, great food stops. Cycle Vienna to Budapest. Best early autumn.
Find details for both trekking the Camino De Santiago and this Danube cycling adventure in the free mini-guide 7 Green Adventures To Do This Year.
Download your copy for free here.
Denmark — Ride along the Jutland coast; use bikes, ferries for island visits, stay in small guesthouses; autumn rain might come, but the colours and light are lovely.
Want a cycling itinerary for Denmark (along with itineraries and slow travel tips for Norway, Sweden, Finland too)?
Then grab your copy of The Green Travel Guide: Slow Scandinavia
I hope these ideas have given you some inspiration for slower travel this autumn. Let me know in the comments where you’re dreaming of for your next slow travel trip.
The Ultimate Green Travel Guide: 100 Inspiring Adventures - Coming Soon
If you’re looking for some slow travel inspiration, pre-order your copy of The Ultimate Green Travel Guide: 100 Inspiring Adventures here. With trips like hiking Tasmania’s Tarkine Rainforest to exploring the Lebanon Mountain Trail, kayaking in the Lofoten Islands in Norway to eco-desert stays in Jordan, or a home stay with an Amazigh family in the Atlas Mountains - this comprehensive guide to sustainable travel will help you find your next adventure.
Reads to accompany these journeys
Around India in 80 Trains by Monisha Rajesh. She travels across India using 80 different train rides - from luxury ones to toy-trains to busy commuter trains. It’s vivid, funny, often chaotic, and gives a great sense of life, place, and character via the rail network.
The Great Railway Baazar by Paul Theroux. Long established as one of the seminal works in train travel writing. Theroux travels from London through Europe, Asia, the Indian subcontinent, Southeast Asia, returns via the Trans-Siberian. Rich in observations of landscapes, cultures, travellers.
The Place of Tides by James Rebanks. Rebanks revisits a remote Norwegian island, exploring its wildness, caring for eider ducks, observing seasons, labour & solitude.
The End of Drum-Time by Hanna Pylväinen. A novel set in 1850s Sweden with Sámi culture, reindeer migrations, wilderness and historical setting. Good if you like immersive nature and culture.
Stolen by Ann-Helén Laestadius. A young Sámi girl witnesses the killing of her reindeer calf but refuses to reveal what she saw to the authorities.
The God of Small Things by Arundhati Roy. Immersive tale of life in Kerala in this beautiful novel.
The Covenant of Water by Abraham Verghese. Spanning three generations of a Malayali family in Kerala. Rich in setting: the water-lives, backwaters, family myth, culture.
Super-Italian: More Than 110 Indulgent Recipes Using Italy’s Healthiest Foods by Giada De Laurentiis (2025) - recipes focusing on “healthier” or nourishing Italian cooking, rooted in tradition but accessible.
Mouneh: Preserving Foods for the Lebanese Pantry by Barbara Abdeni Massaad - seasonal preservation: pickles, preserves, traditional techniques tied to landscapes & seasons, or Forever Beirut: Recipes and Stories from the Heart of Lebanon, also by Barbara Abdeni Massaad.
Vietnam The Cookbook by Anaïs Ca Dao van Manen - comprehensive, with ~450 recipes; travels through different regions of Vietnam, from north to south, classic and everyday dishes.
Between the Woods and the Water: On Foot to Constantinople: From the Middle Danube to the Iron Gates by Patrick Leigh Fermor. Wonderful travel writing across the Danube region.
Danube: A Sentimental Journey from the Source to the Black Sea by Claudio Magris. Follows the Danube River from its source in the Bavarian hills all the way to the Black Sea. Blends travel, history, literature, and cultural reflection. Towns, monuments, landscapes, and the “ghosts” of history are woven through the journey.
Join the Explorers’ Club
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Happy Travels,
Laura
Laura McVeigh
Author, Travel Writer, Founder - Green Travel Guides
lauramcveigh.com | lauramcveightravel.com | travel-writing.com | greentravelguides.world
Laura McVeigh is a Northern Irish novelist and travel writer. Her work is widely translated and her latest novel Lenny is set between the desert in Libya and the bayou in Louisiana. She has authored books for Lonely Planet, DK Travel, bylines in the Irish Times, Irish Independent, featured by the BBC, Newsweek, New Internationalist & many more. Former CEO for a global writers’ organisation, working with writers from 145 countries. She is founder of Travel-Writing.Com and Green Travel Guides. Laura writes on storytelling, travel writing and mindful travel on Substack.
Thank you once again for so much amazing and useful information. I love it! Train travel is by far the best and one of the most relaxing ways to travel. Much appreciated.
I am saving this article. So much fabulous information, thanks 😊